Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve,
Timbavati Private Game Reserve,
Victoria Falls
Leopard Hills Lodge
Our Fed Air flight arrival is at the Ulusaba airstrip from where it’s an approximate 30min drive to the lodge.
The lodge exudes a lot of African charm, with thatched roofs and wooden paneling that create a cozy atmosphere. The design blends beautifully into the surrounding environment. Unlike many lodges that incorporate grass and concrete, which we feel detracts from the authentic bush experience, this lodge maintains a true connection to nature.
The suites are spacious and feature plunge pools (though they aren’t heated). The lodge is built on a hill, with one side elevated on stilts and the other overlooking the open reserve. The side facing the hill offers expansive views of the landscape and the watering hole, while the side facing the reserve may welcome visitors like elephants to your plunge pool in the afternoon.
The staff is attentive, and the food is good, though we felt it could be improved compared to other lodges we’ve stayed at. They cater to all dietary needs with prior notice. You can spend your downtime relaxing by the main pool, enjoying the library, or lounging on your deck to soak in the natural surroundings. And don’t miss out on the bush walks—they’re truly a highlight!
It is worth mentioning that vehicles are limited to six guests, with two seats per row, unlike other reserves that often have a “bench seat” setup with three seats per row. This arrangement provides extra space in the middle for storing your warm clothing, camera gear, and other items. Additionally, the vehicles are sturdy and well-maintained, without any squeaks or signs of age or rust.
Two moments that particularly stand out involve being charged by a rhino. It happened in the bush when the rhino made a sudden dash towards us, just grazing the front of the vehicle. We don’t think it was an act of aggression—more of a warning for us to keep our distance. Our tracker had to quickly somersault back into the vehicle from his seat!
The second memorable experience was witnessing leopards mating in the dark. It was around 7 PM, time to head back to the lodge, when our guide informed us that two leopards had been spotted and asked if we wanted to check them out. Naturally, we jumped at the chance! With just the two of us, we had the opportunity to observe their behavior and spend quality time with the couple without being intrusive.
Overall, we preferred Leopard Hills over Lion Sands. The management was visible, approachable, and engaged with the guests. The ideal time to visit is from June to September (the winter months in the southern hemisphere), as this is when the grasses and bushveld become dry, allowing for better visibility across the landscape. Additionally, during the dry season, animals tend to gather at watering holes rather than spread out across the reserve, making it easier to spot both predators and prey.
On the downside, it can get quite cold in winter, especially during morning game drives and late evenings, so you’ll need to layer up, as the vehicles are open (with no covers unless it’s raining). All lodging options offer a combination of warm blankets, hot water bottles, or parkas to help keep you comfortable.
Kings Camp
Our transfer from Leopard Hills to Kings Camp was by car, entering through the Timbavati Gate and heading north. We stayed one night at Hippo Hollow, another Seasons in Africa property, in HazyView as a “transfer night.” Unfortunately, we didn’t like it at all and wouldn’t recommend it.
Kings Camp has a Victorian-era vibe, which feels quite different from the natural ambiance of Leopard Hills. The property features a grassy lawn around the main pool that attracts antelope for grazing. The suites are appealing if you enjoy a Victorian aesthetic. However, we were concerned about the small concrete watering holes outside each room, which encourage animals to come for a drink. While this is great for tourism—offering that perfect shot of a leopard at night—it can disrupt the natural behavior of the animals in the area.
Game Viewing @ Kings Camp
Like Leopard Hills, Kings Camp limits vehicles to six guests, which remains an important factor in our decision-making process. Additionally, they don’t use bench seating, offering a more comfortable experience. The vehicles are also well-maintained, ensuring a smooth ride.
One of the most intriguing sightings we experienced was towards the end of our second evening drive. Our guide received word of a lion feeding on a buffalo carcass about 20 minutes away. Even though it was almost time to head back to the lodge, we all decided to go see it. We were fortunate to be the first and only vehicle at the sighting.
The lion, with his ribs showing, appeared a bit tired and lethargic. As we approached, our guide drove within meters of him and the carcass. At one point, the lion came within arm’s length of us and looked directly at us before turning away.
As the lion was feeding and moving around, we first spotted one hyena, followed by the rest of the pack arriving. The carcass was just to the right of the lion, and despite being skinny, he managed to keep the hyenas at bay. The cool night wind shifted, bringing the unpleasant stench of the carcass right to us—not a very pleasant experience!
We spent over 30 minutes there, just the four of us, observing this fascinating nighttime behavior. The next morning, we encountered the hyenas feeding on parts of the carcass, which indicated that the lion had moved on at some point during the night.
In the end, we enjoyed our stay in Timbavati, which has a direct unfenced border with Kruger Park. The reserve was unusually dry during our visit. Although we were there at the tail end of the winter season, the weather was quite warm, with mornings and evenings remaining chilly. Unfortunately, we didn’t see the white lions, which is a sign that we need to revisit—perhaps to a different camp.
Would we recommend this camp? Our guide and tracker were good, but we didn’t spot nearly as many nocturnal animals. The lodge itself, as mentioned, doesn’t quite capture the essence of the African bush. Overall, we believe there are better options available.
Royal Chundu River Lodge
The lodge is situated directly west of Livingstone, along the banks of the Zambezi River, a little over halfway to the Botswana border. A car transfer takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. The Matetsi Reserve lies diagonally across the river. During the sunset cruises, it’s possible to spot wildlife on the opposite bank, and we mainly saw alligators.
We had a lovely helicopter transfer to the Lodge from Livingstone with a breathtaking flight over the Victoria Falls followed by a gentle roll along the Zambezi river and arrival to the lodge helipad. Royal Chundu is a stunning property that also operates a sister property on a island accessible by their boat.
Our goal of spending time along the Zambezi was more than fulfilled with the excursions that were arranged for us. These included a private sunset cruise, canoeing on the river (complete with a level 1 white-water rafting experience), a visit to a local village, and an amazing lunch on their island followed by a nature walk among the baobab trees. A fantastic way to spend an exclusive day on the Zambezi river!
Victorla Falls
Additionally, they arranged a trip to the Falls, assisting us in obtaining Zimbabwe visas and organizing our experience on the Zimbabwe side.
We believe the best views of the falls are from the Zimbabwe side. There is an entry fee for the park, where you can spend a couple of hours exploring the viewpoints, ending at the international bridge.
If you’re crossing from Zambia, obtaining a visa is straightforward. After that, you’ll be transported to the border, where you’ll switch to a Zimbabwean vehicle and guide who will take you to the Falls. The return trip follows the same process.
There’s a section known as No Man’s Land, approximately 1 km between the two countries, which neither country claims. It’s advisable to have a car and driver for this part rather than attempting to walk across.
