Phinda Private Game Reserve, Chobe National Park, Okavango Delta
With two trips already behind us, we felt ready to venture further and explore new areas. We aimed to visit reserves that offered diverse ecosystems and the chance to see wildlife we were particularly eager to encounter, such as cheetahs and wild dogs. We also decided to explore the andBeyond portfolio, as they are recognized as one of the top operators in the region. The planning process came together smoothly when we reached out to andBeyond and were connected with one of their agents in South Africa.
Phinda Rock Lodge
In planning our trip with andBeyond, we explored their portfolio of properties and reserves and discovered Phinda, located in the coastal region of KwaZulu-Natal province. Phinda is renowned for its diverse ecosystem, encompassing seven distinct habitats, including savannah, mountain, and forest landscapes. The reserve is also home to cheetah and is a designated biosphere reserve, providing a critical environment for a variety of species. Notably, approximately 1,000 acres of one of the last remaining dry sand forests are preserved at the northern end of the reserve.
Initially, we aimed to book a stay at Vlei Lodge, which is located in the sand forest area. However, due to availability constraints, we were unable to secure a reservation there. As an alternative, we opted for Rock Lodge, situated towards the southern end of the reserve, which also offers a unique experience, though in a different part of the diverse ecosystem.
To reach Phinda, the journey begins with a flight to Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, located outside Nelspruit. Airlink offers excellent connections to this airport. From there, it’s a short bush flight of approximately 45 minutes to the Phinda airstrip. With proper coordination, you can arrive at Phinda by midday, typically between 11 and 12 noon.
The lodge is perched on a cliff face, offering an intimate experience with just six suites. The design reflects a rustic, earthy charm, inspired by adobe-style architecture. Recently renovated, the lodge underwent an update to neutralize its color palette, which we found to be more aesthetically pleasing compared to older photos we had seen. Each suite features a small, circular plunge pool, adding a touch of luxury.
The suites felt a bit dark, which took some getting used to. Due to the lodge’s small footprint, there isn’t much to do during downtime, which can feel a bit limiting. During our stay, some of our meals and ingredients were sourced from the nearby Mountain Lodge, and some of the staff also came from there.
andBeyond is known for maintaining their vehicles to a high standard. During our stay, we were four guests in one vehicle, accompanied by both a guide and a tracker. One of the highlights of the experience was the lodge’s exceptional setup for surprise sundowner stops and dinners in the bush. One evening, our guide mentioned he’d heard of a leopard patrolling nearby and suggested we go check it out. As we set off, we were expecting to see the leopard—but instead, we were greeted by a stunningly set-up dinner in the middle of the bush, a truly unforgettable surprise!
Chobe Under Canvas
Taking advantage of the andBeyond specials available at the time, we decided to visit Botswana, making several stops to explore Chobe National Park and the World Heritage listed Okavango Delta.
Chobe Under Canvas is a mobile camp, one of a select few located within the park along the Chobe Riverfront, just across the border from Namibia. For comparison, andBeyond also operates a sister mobile camp called Savute Under Canvas, located further southwest in the park’s Savute area.
We chose Chobe Under Canvas primarily for its riverfront location, which provides fantastic opportunities to see the large herds of elephants that Chobe is famous for, as well as the chance to enjoy a boat safari along the Chobe River.
Getting to Chobe Under Canvas was relatively straightforward. We spent a night in Johannesburg at our preferred transit hotel, the IHG Johannesburg Airport, before catching an Airlink flight to Kasane. Upon arrival, we were greeted by our andBeyond transfer guide, who took us on a roughly 1-hour road trip. We followed the A33, then turned into the park, heading north toward the camp.
The newly renovated Kasane Airport made the arrival process quick and easy. Since we visited in October, we expected warmth, but with the ongoing drought in 2019, we found the temperatures to be far hotter than anticipated.
The landscape during our drive was initially very dry, with endless stretches of sand and parched trees. As we approached the river, however, the environment began to change, shifting to clay terrain dotted with acacia bushes. This change in landscape also brought more wildlife sightings, including buffaloes and a sleeping pride of lions—an exciting start to our safari adventure.
Chobe Under Canvas offers a truly unique luxury camping experience in the wild. The camp consists of six Meru-style tents, each featuring a queen-sized bed and an ensuite bathroom, providing a private and comfortable stay. However, there is no running water or electricity, which adds to the sense of being immersed in nature. Hot showers are available, thanks to a clever, eco-friendly setup, and while there’s no air conditioning, this is to be expected in such a remote and authentic setting.
One tent is set up as a communal dining area, with a long table and chairs where guests gather for meals. The camp is not fenced, so the staff escorts guests to their tents after dark to ensure safety. One evening, we were treated to a thrilling experience when a leopard silently walked behind our tents. We also heard two male lions roaring, not more than 400 meters away, as they patrolled their territory. This happened while we were enjoying dinner on the second evening. It was pitch black, with a light, cool breeze, when we suddenly heard two deep roars. After a brief pause, we heard the roars again, much closer this time. The staff kept a watchful eye behind us, but due to the fire and our chatter, the lions didn’t approach. Still, they were incredibly close, and the sense of being so close to nature and wildlife was indescribable.
An interesting aspect of Chobe Under Canvas is that, due to national park regulations, the camp cannot remain in a single location for more than 7-9 days. At the end of each cycle, the camp is dismantled, moved to another location, and set up again. We were told that there are about 5 or 6 different locations along the riverfront where the camp circulates, which we found fascinating. Knowing this made us appreciate even more the unique and ever-changing nature of our stay.
We had planned to leave the tent flaps open to let in the evening breeze and sounds of the bush. The warm weather made this decision even wiser, as we enjoyed the cooling air while drifting off to the chorus of the African night.
A few pictures posted here capture some of our unforgettable game viewing experiences from the boat along the Chobe River. It was truly an incredible adventure!
Being on the water provided us with a unique perspective of the landscape, offering views of the wildlife and surroundings that we wouldn’t have seen from land.
While the sightings may not have fully met our expectations, it didn’t diminish the overall experience. Yes, the weather was hot, but the thrill of mobile camping, spending two quality nights inside the national park, and being the first out on morning game drives made it all worthwhile. These elements combined to create an unforgettable adventure for us.
If there’s a downside, it’s that Chobe is a National Park, meaning there are some restrictions. We had to return to camp by sunset, off-roading was not allowed, and we encountered multiple other vehicles during game drives. At one leopard sighting, for instance, there were around 10 vehicles.
Despite this, we highly recommend spending two nights at Chobe Under Canvas or its sister camp, Savute Under Canvas (located in an area known for its lion sightings). We hope to visit Savute Under Canvas soon and look forward to experiencing its unique offerings.
Xaranna Camp
Xaranna is located in the southern part of the Okavango Delta, within the expansive NG30 concession, which spans over 200,000 acres and is operated exclusively by andBeyond. To put it into context, andBeyond manages three camps in the Delta. For awareness, within the NG30 concession, the second camp, Xudum, tragically burned down in early 2019 and has since been permanently closed. The future of this camp remains uncertain.
Given this situation, we had some reservations about whether we should proceed with our trip, unsure if there had been any impact on Xaranna. On top of that, we were aware that the Delta was experiencing a significant drought in 2019, which we had read about. The landscape was parched, dry, and uncomfortably hot. However, despite our initial concerns, we were ultimately very glad we went. The trip provided us with a deeper, more humble understanding of the severe drought’s effect on the flora, fauna, and animals—many of whom were desperately struggling to survive.
The dry conditions during our visit also set the stage for a return trip in the future, when we hope to experience the Okavango Delta in its full glory.
Xaranna is located on a beautiful island in the Delta, and we were shown images at the camp to help us visualize what the area looks like when fully flooded. The camp consists of 9 guest suites, with 2 located to the left of the main area and the rest on the right side. We chose Room 1 for its stunning views and a sense of isolation and exclusivity.
The camp features fixed tents that seamlessly blend into the natural environment, with a neutral color scheme that enhances the sense of tranquility. The common area offers fantastic seating with sweeping views of the watering hole, making it easy to lose track of time as you relax and enjoy the surroundings.
The staff at Xaranna were exceptional, providing attentive care throughout our stay. While the culinary experience was good (though not the best we’ve had), there was always plenty of delicious food, and we were never left hungry.
As with all andBeyond lodges, the vehicles at Xaranna are impeccably maintained. Even after hours on a game drive, you don’t feel fatigued. During our stay, we had a vehicle to ourselves, with just four guests alongside our guide and tracker. One standout feature of andBeyond is that they are either the only operator or one of a very few in the Okavango Delta to provide a tracker alongside the guide. While most lodges only have a guide, we found that, aside from a couple of key sightings our tracker pointed out, the difference didn’t always feel significant.
In addition to the game drives, we had a few memorable surprise sundowners. At one stop, we were greeted by a troop of baboons as we arrived. The story goes that the staff had set up the sundowner stop and then left. Just before we arrived, the baboons attempted to swoop in, but as soon as we showed up, they scampered away. The timing was perfect—it was right as the sun was setting, and as darkness quickly enveloped us, the scene became even more magical, with only the lamps providing light. This sundowner experience in the wilderness was truly unforgettable!
Game viewing at Xaranna exceeded our expectations, especially considering the drought conditions at the time. One of the first highlights occurred soon after we checked into our suite when we witnessed elephants mating at the watering hole just a short distance from our room!
Another memorable moment was when we encountered two lionesses that had just failed in a hunt for a warthog. Looking dejected, they turned around, and we followed them to see them meet their cubs. The cubs greeted their mothers with pure joy, though it was clear they were waiting for food that wouldn’t come that day. We spent the most incredible 30 minutes observing this lion family—watching them reunite, play, nuzzle, and finally fall asleep together. Moments like this, where you can witness the natural behavior of animals in the wild, truly embody the magic of a safari experience!
The second highlight of our stay was an incredible demonstration of our tracker’s expertise in tracking wild dogs. During an evening game drive, as the sun was setting, our tracker spotted wild dog tracks. Over the radio, we learned that the wild dogs were at least 20-30 minutes south of our location, actively hunting. We quickly made our way in their direction, with our tracker providing detailed guidance to the guide, instructing him on which turns to take as we followed the tracks.
For those unfamiliar, wild dogs are known for covering vast distances at impressive speeds, so keeping up with them is no easy feat. What was truly spectacular was how our tracker navigated the many twists and turns in the fading light, skillfully following the tracks to lead us to the dogs. We arrived just in time to witness an exciting chase where the wild dogs were pursuing a reedbuck—though, fortunately for the reedbuck, it managed to escape.
We were able to spend a few moments observing them before we had to head back to camp, as darkness quickly descended. It was one of those rare, thrilling safari experiences that made the evening unforgettable!
The final highlight of our stay was witnessing a large herd of buffalo make their way down to the watering hole for a drink, kicking up a massive dust cloud as they approached. This happened around 530am, just before we set out for our morning game drive. Our curiosity piqued, we couldn’t help but focus on the dust cloud, wondering what it was. As it drew nearer, the shape of the buffalo herd began to emerge.
We stood there for a solid 30 minutes, completely captivated by the scene unfolding before us. The sheer number of buffalo, the dust swirling around them, and the raw power of the herd moving together was awe-inspiring. It was one of those moments that made us feel truly connected to the wild, a rare and unforgettable experience to witness such a natural spectacle.
Considering the circumstances of our visit in October, the game viewing at Xaranna was amazing. The camp’s location and layout were great, and we could easily imagine how stunning the area would look during the green season, when the Delta is in full flood. However, we did feel that the camp could benefit from more than just a touch-up—perhaps a complete overhaul. Many parts of the suite, dining area, and lounge seemed a bit dated, especially given the price range and the luxury caliber that andBeyond is known for.
In the years since our visit, we hope that some improvements have been made to help realize the camp’s true potential and enhance the overall experience for guests. Despite this, we still highly recommend the camp, with the aforementioned comments in mind. The combination of location, wildlife experiences, and the intimate feel of the camp make it a worthwhile stay.
Sandibe Lodge
Our final stop was andBeyond’s Sandibe Lodge, located in the Chitabe concession, which spans over 60,000 acres and is shared by four camps from two safari operators: andBeyond and Wilderness Safaris. Sandibe is made up of 12 suites, and the lodge layout follows a design inspired by the pangolin. While this minimalist style works for some, it didn’t resonate with us. The lounge area, though spacious, lacked warmth and didn’t feel particularly inviting—perhaps due to the minimalist theme.
Upon arrival, we didn’t immediately feel the same welcoming atmosphere we had experienced at other camps and lodges. For starters, no one was there to receive us, which felt impersonal. Additionally, we had a rather disappointing experience with our butler and a couple of other staff members, including management, which left a sour impression on our stay. Given this, we would rate Sandibe with zero stars for the lodge experience itself.
That said, we want to acknowledge the two stars given for our exceptional guide and tracker, who truly made our game drives memorable. Their competence and passion for wildlife helped shift our focus from the lackluster service at the lodge, and they gave us some incredible safari moments.
In terms of location, Sandibe is set along the Santantadibe Channel, and the area was noticeably lusher and greener compared to Xaranna, even with the ongoing drought. The natural beauty of the surroundings certainly had its charm, but the overall lodge experience fell short of what we expected from an andBeyond property.
The Chitabe concession is known for its excellent wildlife sightings, and andBeyond markets Sandibe as their premier lodge in the Okavango Delta. With that in mind, we decided to extend our stay and book a third night during the booking process. Unfortunately, upon arrival, we quickly regretted this decision. It was a valuable lesson learned—sometimes, it’s better to go with your instincts and not be swayed by marketing when choosing a place to stay.
As part of a special offer, we had the incredible opportunity to take a helicopter transfer from Xaranna to Sandibe, flying low over the vast Delta plains. It was a truly amazing experience, and we highly recommend it to anyone who has the chance. The aerial views of the Delta from above are nothing short of breathtaking, offering a unique perspective on the landscape.
That said, it’s worth noting that the heat inside the helicopter was quite intense, especially in the first few minutes after we boarded. The A/C doesn’t kick in right away, so we were feeling the warmth as we lifted off. Perhaps the heat was exacerbated by the ongoing drought, but it was still a bit uncomfortable until the cooling system started to kick in.
A few photos posted here clearly show the contrast between the parched, dry terrain we flew over initially and the more vibrant, green landscape closer to Sandibe, thanks to the Santantadibe Channel. It was fascinating to witness how the landscape shifted with the presence of water.
One of the more interesting sightings during our time at Sandibe involved a hippo who wasn’t too happy about us being in his vicinity. Our guide quickly noticed his “bad mood” and wisely parked our vehicle perpendicular to the hippo rather than facing him directly, allowing us a quick escape if necessary. Within just a few minutes, the hippo made a charge towards us, and we wasted no time in hightailing it out of there, giving him all the space he wanted. Our guide’s intuition was spot on, and we were grateful for the quick thinking that kept us safe. It’s a reminder of just how unpredictable and powerful wildlife can be, even in seemingly calm moments!
We had several fascinating lion sightings during our time at Sandibe, each with its own interesting story. One particularly memorable observation unfolded over two days as we tracked two male lions, featured in the photo gallery below. Later that afternoon, we watched as one of the males spent time with his mating partner. We were fortunate to spend over an hour with the pair, observing their interactions and the dynamics between them.
The very next morning, while enjoying a quick breakfast before our morning drive, we heard a roar not far away. Eager to investigate, we rushed out and quickly found fresh lion tracks near a baobab tree. We followed the tracks and soon came across the same male from the previous evening—this time, he was alone. He was looking around anxiously, roaring multiple times, clearly on the lookout. Eventually, he settled down near a termite mound, and that’s when we pieced it all together. It turned out that his brother had “stolen” his girlfriend right from under his nose, leaving him high and dry! The drama of the lion dynamics played out right before our eyes, and it was a truly unique and memorable experience.
In summary, the wildlife sightings at Sandibe were impressive, and we had ample opportunities to observe fascinating animal interactions and behaviors. The extended time spent with various species allowed us to appreciate the intricacies of their social dynamics, making for a truly enriching safari experience. While the lodge itself didn’t meet all of our expectations, the wildlife encounters and the expertise of our guide and tracker made our stay memorable and rewarding.