Hwange National Park, Okavango Delta, Selinda Game Reserve,
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
Welcome to our 5th African Safari Trip Report! For this adventure, our primary focus was exploring the Wilderness Safari concession in Hwange National Park, experiencing the floods in the Okavango Delta, and visiting a new reserve in South Africa. Along the way, we decided to add a stop at Victoria Falls to witness the full force of the water cascading across its entire width.
To bring this trip to life, we reached out to our travel advisor back in 2020, outlining the destinations and camps we wanted to visit. As we’ve mentioned in previous posts, planning well in advance is key for us. It allows us to fully embrace the essence of each journey, carefully balancing the timing of low and peak seasons, understanding the current state of the natural environment, and combining luxury with authentic wildlife experiences. With this in mind, we planned our trip for the last week of May, right on the edge of peak season.
Now, let’s dive in!
Linkwasha Camp
Our journey began as it always does for our Southern Africa trips—flying into Johannesburg and spending the night at the IHG hotel just across from the Arrivals terminal. It’s a lovely hotel with excellent service, making it a great place to rest. After a peaceful night’s sleep and a quick breakfast, we headed off to check in for our Fastjet flight to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Fastjet is a wonderful airline—small, efficient, and with an easy check-in process. The quick boarding and disembarking made immigration at Victoria Falls a breeze, and the flight attendants were attentive, ensuring that everyone was well taken care of.
Wilderness Safaris has a dedicated “lounge” at Victoria Falls airport, where you can relax while waiting for your bush flight transfer to camp, available once you’ve cleared immigration. It’s a great spot to unwind before continuing on your adventure.
After about a 20-minute wait, we were ready to board our flight to camp. This turned out to be one of the smallest bush planes we’ve ever flown on to date! The flight to the concession’s landing strip takes about 30 minutes.
Upon arrival, the guide meets guests and walks them to the lounge, where light snacks are served before heading off to camp, which is about a 45-minute drive away. Not far from the lounge tent, we spotted wild dog tracks—likely a couple of days old—reminding us that we were truly in the heart of wild Africa! This initial experience set the tone for the exciting adventures to come. A side note: en route to the camp, you pass by the Little Makololo sleep-out deck, and Linkwasha has one as well, which we’ll explore later.
The camp itself features a modern, open, and airy layout, with grey tones that complement the surrounding natural environment. There are five suites to the right of the main area and three to the left. The camp also has a pool, perfect for relaxing during the warm afternoon sun while overlooking a watering hole. The meals were excellent, and we were particularly impressed by how well our vegetarian request was accommodated. The staff went above and beyond to ensure we had a separate dining area, ensuring our food experience was completely flawless. A truly thoughtful touch!
The suites are thoughtfully designed, equipped with all the amenities you’d expect for a comfortable stay. Since it can get quite cold in the evenings and overnight, each suite is provided with a heater to keep things cozy.
Our game drives were enjoyable, though perhaps the reputation of the Wilderness Concession set our expectations a bit higher. We explored almost every corner of the concession, including the renowned Ngamo Plains. Some of the highlights of our drives included encountering wild dogs feeding on a very fresh kill, spotting a herd of roan antelope, spending a relaxing afternoon at the camp’s hide, enjoying an evening drive through Ngamo Plains, and going on a bush walk.
Linkwasha is truly a fantastic camp to visit. In fact, we’d love to return to experience the things we missed, like seeing sable antelope. The staff and management go above and beyond to ensure guests have an unforgettable stay, and we experienced this exceptional care firsthand.
Victoria Falls stopover - Palm Royal Hotel
Since we needed to cross the border into Botswana the day after returning to Victoria Falls, we decided to make the most of the opportunity and visit the Falls again. Our first trip had been a few years earlier in October when the water levels were much lower, so this time, we wanted to witness the full power and grandeur of the Falls and compare it to what we saw before. Our travel advisor arranged our stay at the newly opened Palm Royal Hotel, snagging us the presidential suite.
The hotel is situated on the north side of Victoria Falls, along the banks of the Zambezi River, and offers sunset cruises for guests. Overall, the hotel is quite nice. The presidential suite, as expected, is spacious, occupying the entire third floor of one wing, with an ideal location offering views of the hotel pool, grounds, and the Zambezi River. Our dinner was delicious, but unfortunately, breakfast was a completely different experience—it was a disaster. The service was inconsistent, which we attribute to the hotel being newly opened. Given that, we would certainly be open to giving it another try in the future to offer a more thorough evaluation.
Upon checking in, we headed straight to the Falls. Given the immense volume of water cascading over the edge, we were a bit concerned about reaching viewpoint 16, but we decided to give it a go. Despite getting drenched along the way, we managed to walk the entire distance. The three hours we spent there were incredibly enjoyable and definitely made the one-night stopover worthwhile as we made our way to Botswana. We highly recommend taking this detour to fully experience the splendor, majesty, and raw power of the Falls at their peak!
Duba Plains Camp
Upon checking out from Palm Royal, we were driven to the Botswana border at Kazungula, where we transferred to a Botswana vehicle for the short drive to Kasane Airport. From there, we caught our onward bush flight to Duba Plains in the Okavango Delta. The entire process took less than two hours. The drive to Kazungula was quite scenic, as the road passes through a couple of National Parks, including the Matetsi Game Reserve.
The flight to Duba Plains takes about an hour. Having heard that the rainwaters had reached the northern Delta, we were eager to witness the Okavango Floods firsthand, especially since our previous visit had been during a drought when everything was dry, parched, and sweltering. The contrast between the dry and wet seasons was striking—what a remarkable transformation!
After taking in stunning aerial views of the water channels, with excitement building, we arrived at Duba Plains—our 4th Great Plains camp! With the floodwaters moving in, guests traveling to Duba Explorers Camp typically connect via helicopter from the airstrip. For us, however, it was just a short 10-minute drive to our camp with our guide.
Suffice it to say, Duba Plains is an incredible camp in an equally stunning location! With just five suites, it offers a truly intimate experience. As with other Great Plains camps, Duba Plains has an authentic tented setup, and the pathways are left in their natural state—this is where you really feel at one with nature. For those who may not know, Duba Plains is the home base for the founders of Great Plains, who filmed their famous lion/buffalo encounters for National Geographic documentaries primarily in this concession. While such dramatic interactions still occur, they’re less frequent nowadays, as the lion prides have split into smaller groups due to new males coming in, forming their own coalitions and territories. It typically takes a larger pride to bring down an adult buffalo.
During our stay, we came across two lion brothers one evening, resting by a water channel. A little later, they both roared in unison, and the vibrations were so powerful it felt as though the earth itself was shaking. The next morning, we found the two brothers feeding on a buffalo carcass they had killed overnight. Our guide wasn’t sure if it was just the two of them who managed to take down the buffalo, but it was an incredible sight nonetheless.
Our game drives were truly incredible. We saw nearly everything we had hoped to, including swimming lions, leaping lechwes, and elephants crossing a wide water channel. It was everything we expected and more!
We took a relaxing boat ride along the river one afternoon. It was a wonderful way to unwind while taking in the various plants and wildlife along the shore.
We highly recommend Duba Plains without hesitation. It’s a spectacular camp, made even more special by the amazing and caring staff. The chef truly deserves a Michelin star in our book, preparing the most delicious meals each day. For anyone considering a visit to the northern Delta, don’t hesitate to book a stay at Duba Plains—it’s an experience you won’t want to miss!
Zarafa Camp
Selinda Game Reserve is fully managed by Great Plains, who operate several camps in the area, including Zarafa, Selinda, and Selinda Explorers. Before Selinda was revamped into a more intimate setup with just three stunning suites, Zarafa was—and remains—Great Plains’ flagship camp in Botswana. Zarafa is an exclusive camp, with only four suites, and is beautifully located along the Zibadiania Lagoon. While Duba Plains was fantastic, Zarafa took things to another level in terms of camp layout, exclusivity, and authenticity, all while seamlessly combining luxury with a true sense of wilderness.
Upon arrival, we were blown away by the camp’s beauty. It’s exquisitely laid out, blending seamlessly with the surrounding natural environment. The suites are tented, yet luxurious, with all the comforts you could ask for, including a fireplace for the chilly nights. Like all Great Plains properties, the design theme features dark wood, red carpets, copper tubs, and stunning doors and décor.
We took plenty of time to unwind in our suite, whether inside or relaxing outside by the plunge pool. We had requested the farthest suite (Suite 1) to fully immerse ourselves in the tranquility of the environment, and it was the perfect choice for experiencing the serenity of this special place.
We were fortunate to have a fantastic guide, Obi, and even luckier to have the vehicle and guide all to ourselves, which was the case across all five Great Plains camps we visited. Our guide went above and beyond to ensure we had an incredible experience, taking us through the Selinda Concession and showcasing its sights and sounds. One memorable moment was when we had the opportunity to learn about elephants visiting a site with old bones, including a fairly intact skull. Our guide explained the honeycomb structure of an elephant skull, which helps it support the massive weight of these gentle giants. Seeing the bones up close really put into perspective just how enormous and majestic elephants truly are!
Some of the highlights of our game viewing were truly unforgettable. One of the most memorable moments was watching a herd of elephants grazing and then walking past us from left to right. Our guide instinctively positioned us so that they would pass slowly, allowing us to observe these majestic creatures up close. Of course, we stayed silent to avoid disturbing the herd—something essential when you’re in such close proximity to wildlife!
Another incredible experience was following a male lion for over 3 kilometers. At first, we had no idea where he was headed, but it was clear he was on a mission. Every so often, he would stop to sniff the air, never once circling back. His destination turned out to be finding his brother, and the two of them exchanged what can only be described as “lion hugs.” It was remarkable to witness his keen sense of smell and vision as he tracked down his sibling.
We also followed a pack of wild dogs for a while, but they eventually crossed into the Kwando concession. Other unforgettable experiences included encountering a herd of over 100 elephants, a thrilling speedboat safari in the lagoon, and spotting numerous plains species. The diversity and richness of the Selinda Concession made for some truly incredible game viewing.
We had the incredible experience of getting up close to a large elephant munching on lilies, on our speedboat safari. It was truly magical to just float there, listening to the elephant pull and chew, while the surrounding sounds of nature filled the air. It was an experience like no other!
The sunset that followed was one of the most vibrant we’ve ever seen. The colors were so vivid. It was a perfect end to an unforgettable day in the Delta.
If there’s one place you should visit, it’s Zarafa. That said, we did have one hiccup during our stay—the head chef. Unlike the chef at Duba Plains, this gentleman seemed to have a chip on his shoulder from the moment we arrived. His attitude was off-putting, and unfortunately, the meals didn’t live up to expectations, with some of them being quite disappointing. He also had a tendency to argue, which was frustrating. We raised our concerns with the camp management, as we felt the situation could have been handled much better, especially given the high standards of this camp.
To us, it seems Great Plains could benefit from cloning the exceptional staff from Duba Plains to bring that same level of warmth and service to Zarafa. We recognize this was likely a one-off experience and didn’t detract from the overall splendor of the camp. Despite this issue, Zarafa remains a special place, and we’ll definitely be back—hopefully to find that one bad experience firmly in the past.
Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
With our incredible Zimbabwe and Botswana adventures behind us, we returned to Johannesburg via Maun and checked back into the IHG at the Johannesburg airport for the night. The following morning, we flew to Port Elizabeth (now known as Gqeberha) on Airlink, and from there, it was a roughly 2-hour car transfer to Kwandwe.
Upon arrival at Kwandwe, all guests are warmly welcomed at the Uplands Homestead. After a quick check-in, the guide then drives guests to their respective lodges. We were booked into the beautiful Ecca Lodge for our stay.
A bit about Kwandwe: It’s not as widely known as places like Sabi Sands or Madikwe, but it certainly offers a unique and intimate experience. The Reserve is privately owned and spans around 55,000 acres of land in the Eastern Cape province, northeast of Port Elizabeth along the Groot River. Kwandwe has a couple of lodges—Ecca Lodge and Great Fish River Lodge (which was closed for maintenance during our visit)—as well as a few guesthouses for a more private stay.
For those who prefer flying in, Kwandwe has its own airstrip, making it easy to reach the Reserve without having to drive. Despite being a lesser-known gem, the Reserve offers a surprisingly diverse range of wildlife, some of which are harder to find in other well-known reserves. One notable species Kwandwe doesn’t have is wild dogs. We were told there were attempts to introduce them, but unfortunately, they didn’t thrive in the area.
That said, we were fortunate enough to see a wide variety of wildlife, including black rhinos, as well as some lesser-known species like bat-eared foxes, brown hyenas, and caracals—each adding to the richness and diversity of the experience.
Ecca Lodge is a great option for families traveling with children, as it is fenced for added safety and peace of mind. The lodge has a small footprint, with just six suites, three on either side of the main area—creating an intimate and cozy atmosphere. The staff were exceptional, and the food was fantastic, making our stay even more enjoyable.
The topography of the Kwandwe Reserve is beautifully diverse, featuring hills, valleys, dense bush areas, and open plains. This variety makes for an exciting and scenic experience during game drives, as the landscape constantly shifts, offering new perspectives and opportunities for wildlife viewing.
Kwandwe is home to three prides of lions, and we were incredibly lucky to see all three on our very first day, both during the morning and afternoon game drives! We had great luck spotting a wide variety of animals, some of which are captured in the photos posted.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t get clear pictures of the bat-eared fox, brown hyena, or caracal, but the opportunity to see these elusive species up close was an unforgettable experience. It’s not every day you get to witness such a wide array of wildlife, and it made our time at Kwandwe even more special.
Kwandwe is truly a special Reserve. We had an incredible time immersing ourselves in the varied wildlife, from spending time with a cheetah on the hunt to encountering the magnificent rhinos, along with so much more. It’s a place that offers something unique and different from the more famous reserves, and we’re certain that as more safari enthusiasts learn about it, it will become a more mainstream destination.
For now, though, we consider it a hidden gem, and if you ever have the opportunity to visit, we highly recommend it. It’s a place that will leave you with lasting memories of Africa’s untamed beauty.
Garden Route
Our journey continued to Cape Town, driving along the famous Garden Route, which starts at the Storms River Bridge near Tsitsikamma National Park—both of which are must-see stops. We spent the night in Plettenberg Bay, an area filled with plenty to explore, including the Birds of Eden Aviary, the Knysna Elephant Park, and Robberg Nature Reserve.
From Plettenberg Bay, we drove on to the charming town of Knysna—a must-visit destination in itself—and then onward to George, passing through Wilderness. From here, you face a decision: continue along the inner highway or veer towards the coast to Struisbaai and visit the southernmost point of Africa at Agulhas National Park. We opted for the coastal route, driving past Hermanus and heading straight into Cape Town.
The Garden Route is an incredible drive with so much to see and do along the way. It’s similar to the Panorama Route or the scenic western drive through Namaqua National Park, offering breathtaking views and unforgettable beauty. It’s truly an experience you won’t want to miss!