Great Migration: Serengeti & Beyond
East Africa
This time, we’re heading to East Africa to witness the awe-inspiring Great Migration on land, while also venturing into lesser-known national parks that lie off the typical tourist path.
Join us on this unforgettable adventure as we visit six unique camps across Kenya and Tanzania, uncovering hidden gems beyond the famed Serengeti and Masai Mara.
This journey was nearly a year in the making, and the anticipation only added to our excitement—we couldn’t wait to finally set off!
JW Marriott Nairobi
We’ve arrived… back home! Though there was a slight delay, our excitement remained undiminished as the plane touched down at JKIA. Immigration was smooth, and before we knew it, we were en route to the JW Marriott Nairobi.
The hotel’s airport transfer service was flawless—an attentive representative was waiting for us, escorting us straight to the car and driver. Thanks to the new expressway, the drive took only about 20 minutes, even at this late hour. Upon arrival, we were welcomed not just as guests, but as family.
The following day, we did what we love most—exploring Nairobi. We met up with friends and enjoyed a leisurely lunch together. Unfortunately, our plan to dine at Mughal had to be postponed for our next visit, as their hours didn’t align with our schedule this time.
What really stood out during our stay was the genuine hospitality of the hotel. The staff were always smiling, eager to assist, and dedicated to ensuring our time there was memorable.
Do we recommend the JW Marriott Nairobi? Absolutely!!
Emakoko
We started our safari adventure with a unique and seamless arrival at The Emakoko, the only lodge situated within Nairobi National Park. After a quick 30-minute transfer from the East Gate, which includes a short game drive, we were welcomed into the serene and secluded atmosphere of the lodge.
Nestled on a hillside, Emakoko offers the exclusive experience of East Africa’s only funicular, taking guests up to their luxurious suites without the need to climb numerous steps. It’s a welcome feature, especially after a long journey.
Despite its proximity to Nairobi, Emakoko feels like a true wilderness escape. A charming wooden bridge over the Mbagathi River adds to the rustic charm. With only 10 suites, each offering stunning views, the lodge is a perfect balance of comfort and nature. We stayed in Room 10, considered the best suite, perched high with panoramic views of the park—simply spectacular! All rooms are identical in layout, featuring large balconies, with cliffside suites offering the most scenic vistas of the park. The meals were excellent, and the staff were attentive to every need, accommodating all dietary requests.
Game viewing @ Emakoko
Nairobi National Park is a unique destination—it’s the world’s only national park located within a capital city. The park is home to a variety of wildlife, including the endangered black rhino, and it’s a fantastic place to capture that iconic shot of a giraffe or rhino with the city skyline in the background. We had some fantastic sightings, including rhinos, lions, hyenas, and numerous antelopes and bird species.
One of the highlights is the Ivory Burning Site, a somber but important stop where guests can learn about the three pits used for the destruction of confiscated ivory and rhino horns.
What sets Emakoko apart is its location, offering early access to the park before the crowds arrive. The lodge has exclusive access to certain park entrances, giving guests a few quiet hours to explore the park like a private conservancy. Additionally, guests are driven to the Sheldrick Wildlife Orphanage, which serves as an extension of the game drive experience.
However, like most popular parks, Nairobi National Park can become crowded. Once the tour vehicles arrive, sightings can get busy, though the park is large enough to spread out, with several picnic areas available for a more peaceful experience.
If you’re short on time, it’s certainly possible to visit Nairobi National Park on a day trip. But if you’re looking to start or end your safari in style, Emakoko is a hidden gem that offers a luxurious and immersive experience right at the heart of the park. It’s an unforgettable way to experience the wild without leaving the city.
Arusha RiverTrees Country Inn
After a memorable stay at The Emakoko, we continued our journey to Arusha, the gateway to northern Tanzania’s safari circuit. For convenience and speed, we chose to fly from Wilson Airport to Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO)—a route we highly recommend for efficient travel.
Thanks to Asilia Africa, our ground transfers were seamless. Upon arrival, we headed to RiverTrees Country Inn for what we like to call a “transfer night”—a restful stop before heading deeper into safari country.
Dunia Camp
We started the morning with a transfer to Arusha airport, which included a visit to the Asilia Pole Pole Lounge. The lounge staff truly go above and beyond, offering a warm welcome and staying attentive to flight departures, even walking guests to the gate. After a relaxing time there, we continued on to Seronera airstrip. While Seronera is typically busy, the start of peak season made it even more lively. Along the way, we were treated to a beautiful sighting of a herd of elephants crossing the road, along with small groups of migrating wildebeest, before arriving at our camp in the Central Serengeti region.
Dunia Camp is Africa’s only all-female-run safari camp. The camp features 8 spacious tents, with 4 on either side of the main area. Each tent is generously sized and equipped with all the luxury amenities. The camp has a modern yet natural feel, blending seamlessly into the environment. The layout is well thought out, and the staff is exceptional—caring, attentive, and always available to assist. The food is outstanding, meeting Asilia’s high standards, and the guiding is equally impressive.
The camp’s location is perfect for witnessing the Great Migration, especially during migration season near the Moru Kopjes and Lake Magadi. It’s also easy to plan a full-day safari to Seronera and the Eastern Serengeti, both offering unforgettable experiences.
Game viewing @ Dunia Camp
The migration sightings are nothing short of spectacular—straight out of a National Geographic documentary. Picture thousands upon thousands of wildebeest and zebras marching in perfect formation, following the rains and the promise of fresh grass. The sight of these herds gathering in the thousands and crossing the Mbalageti River is truly reminiscent of the famous Mara River crossings! This area is also prime for incredible predator sightings, particularly during migration season. Central Serengeti is undoubtedly the best place to witness lions lounging in trees, adding an iconic touch to the experience.
Dunia is, without a doubt, the most luxurious camp in the Central Serengeti, boasting a prime location. The staff creates an atmosphere that feels like home, treating each guest like family. The consistency in service is remarkable, and the food is absolutely exceptional. Asilia’s unwavering commitment to the guest experience is evident at every turn.
Roho Ya Selous
After a memorable stay at Dunia Camp, we embarked on our multi-leg journey to Selous National Park, now known as Julius Nyerere National Park. Our adventure began with a game drive back to Seronera airstrip, marking the first leg of our journey back to Arusha, where we once again enjoyed the impeccable service at the Pole Pole Lounge.
From Arusha, we flew to Dar Es Salaam, connecting to the final leg of our journey to Mtemere Airstrip, just outside the park. True to form, our guide was waiting for us on arrival, and we set off on an approximately 2-hour game drive to camp.
The camp is beautifully situated on the western edge of Lake Nzerakera, sourced from the Rufiji River, and consists of 8 spacious suites. The layout of the camp differs from other Asilia properties, which may not suit everyone, but the suites are generously sized and come equipped with all the luxury amenities you would expect.
The climate in the park tends to be warm and humid during the cooler months, with temperatures rising significantly in the summer due to its proximity to the coastal plains. While Selous is the largest park in Tanzania, it is often overshadowed by the more famous Serengeti, Ngorongoro, and Tarangire regions.
The park’s topography varies from palm forests near the lakes to rolling savannahs and riverine forests further inland. One of the highlights of the camp is the boating excursion on the river, which offers a fantastic opportunity to spot not only a wide variety of birds and reptiles but also elephants crossing the river—reminiscent of the Okavango River crossings in Botswana.
As with Dunia, the staff, camp management, food, and guiding were all top-notch, maintaining the high standards we’ve come to expect from Asilia.
Game viewing @ Roho Ya Selous
Game viewing in Selous is rewarding but tends to improve as the dry season progresses and the vegetation thins out, making it easier to spot wildlife—particularly since off-roading is not permitted due to the park’s National Park status. During our stay, we had some good sightings, with a memorable final game drive ending in a beautiful sunset view of a leopard resting in a tree. One particularly impressive lion sighting also led to a scenic breakfast stop, with 2 lionesses and 2 cubs lounging in the shades of a couple bushes not too far away on our right.
A highlight of any stay at Roho ya Selous, the boat safari glides along the Rufiji River system between Lake Manze and Lake Nzerakera. Guests drift past pods of hippos, crocodiles basking on sandbanks, and an incredible variety of birdlife including stunning sunset views.
Selous National Park is an excellent choice for experienced safari travelers looking to explore a more remote and less-visited region of Tanzania. The camp we stayed at is among a select few in the premium category, offering a high level of comfort and service. Our overall experience was exceptional, with quality guiding, thoughtful hospitality, and memorable wildlife moments throughout our stay
Usangu Expedition Camp
A short one-hour flight brought us to Jongomero Airstrip in Ruaha National Park—another of Tanzania’s hidden gems. Despite being the second-largest national park in the country, Ruaha is often overlooked in favor of its more well-known neighbors, making it ideal for those seeking a more remote and exclusive safari experience.
Our destination was Usangu Expedition Camp, one of Asilia’s newer and more unique offerings. Open only during the drier winter months (typically June to December), the camp closes during the rainy season when flooding in the surrounding wetlands makes access difficult and brings an influx of mosquitoes and tsetse flies.
Located in the remote southeastern corner of Ruaha, along the edge of the Usangu Wetlands, the camp offers a sense of seclusion that feels akin to a private conservancy. With no other camps in the immediate vicinity, guests enjoy a truly immersive wilderness experience.
The camp is intimate and thoughtfully designed, featuring just six spacious and beautifully appointed tents. The common area is tastefully minimalist, yet warm and inviting. The overall design is modern and clean, while still blending harmoniously with the surrounding environment. Camp management and staff are exceptional—attentive, personable, and professional. Dining is a highlight, with meals that impress both in flavor and variety.
One of the standout experiences is the sleepout under the stars—either beside your tent or at a scenic riverfront location approximately two hours from camp. It’s an unforgettable adventure we highly recommend.
Another unique feature is the Douglas Bell Research Centre, an integral part of the Usangu experience. Guests are introduced to the ecological importance of the wetlands and the conservation efforts underway, including the use of camera traps. At the end of your stay, you’re presented with a collection of photos and videos captured during your visit—an inspiring and personal memento of your time in this remarkable setting.
Game viewing @ Usangu Camp
This part of Ruaha is known for its Sable and Roan sightings along with a variety of birds and mammals. We had amazing sightings of these antelope species along with lions and an afternoon with a wild dog pack. A memorable sighting was that of a martial eagle swooping down on a flock of guinea fowl narrowly missing its target – a once in a lifetime sighting!
Usangu Expedition Camp is truly a standout destination. From its thoughtful layout and unique experiences to the exceptional staff, every aspect of the camp leaves a lasting impression. It’s a place that offers something truly special—and one we absolutely plan to return to!
Jabali Ridge
Jabali Ridge is located in the northern section of Ruaha National Park and offers a seamless blend of luxury and natural beauty. Reaching the lodge from the Usangu area is part of the experience itself: the journey begins with a return game drive to the Jongomero airstrip, followed by a transfer to a Jabali vehicle for an approximately 3-hour scenic game drive to the lodge.
One of the most striking aspects of this transfer is the dramatic change in landscape. Unlike the flat, open terrain of the Usangu Wetlands, the route to Jabali reveals a more undulating environment with denser foliage and an abundance of baobab trees—a clear contrast that enhances the sense of entering a new and distinct ecosystem.
Perched on a hillside among massive granite boulders (hence the name), Jabali Ridge offers an exceptional stay. The lodge is undeniably luxurious yet retains an authentic, rustic charm. With just eight spacious suites and the exclusive-use Jabali House for families or groups, the camp feels intimate and boutique despite its visually impressive footprint. The architecture and layout are beautifully integrated into the natural surroundings, with suites positioned to maximize privacy and views of the sweeping baobab forest below.
Service at Jabali Ridge is consistently outstanding. From management and guiding to the culinary team, every staff member contributes to a personalized and unobtrusive level of care that elevates the entire experience. The meals are a particular highlight—thoughtfully crafted and elegantly presented, with flavors that rival top-tier restaurants.
In short, Jabali Ridge is a remarkable destination that effortlessly combines design, service, and setting into a truly memorable safari experience.
Game viewing @ Jabali Ridge
While the occasional elephant may wander near Jabali House, the primary game viewing takes place along the Mwagusi River. This area is known for its reliable wildlife sightings, with regular encounters of lions, leopards, elephants, and buffalo. Although this part of Ruaha doesn’t host the more elusive antelope species like sable or roan, there’s no shortage of classic safari game such as impala and kudu.
For those looking to explore further, extended game drives toward the Great Ruaha River offer a broader range of wildlife, including the possibility of spotting wild dogs, hippos, and crocodiles.
What truly sets this region apart is the variety of landscapes it offers. Guests have the chance to traverse an impressive range of terrain—from dry riverbeds and lush riverine thickets to iconic baobab forests and the expansive Great Ruaha River. Each environment reveals a different facet of Ruaha’s ecological diversity and the wildlife uniquely adapted to each habitat.
This dynamic mix of scenery and species makes the Jabali Ridge area a standout for travelers seeking both game and a deep connection to Ruaha’s varied terrain. In fact, a rather famous video of a leopard jumping on a impala from a sauage tree was captured in this area. Additionally the bush walk on offer are a phenomenal way to experience the varied landscape on foot followed by an impressive breakfast in the bush.
In summary, Jabali Ridge is an outstanding choice for travelers seeking a high-end safari experience that stands apart from the more traditional, intimate canvas camps. It offers a refined blend of luxury, warm hospitality, and excellent wildlife viewing in a truly unique setting.
Kokoko Camp
Kokoko Camp is Asilia’s exclusive and intimate offering, tucked within a forested area about 30 minutes from its sister property, Jabali Ridge. With just three beautifully designed star-gazing canvas tents, Kokoko is booked on an exclusive-use basis and accommodates between two and six guests—making it ideal for couples, families, or small groups seeking privacy and seclusion.
Though smaller in scale, Kokoko shares the same outstanding level of hospitality, staff professionalism, and culinary excellence as Jabali Ridge, ensuring a seamless experience with no compromise in service.
Wildlife is never far. Elephants are frequent visitors to the camp itself, and there’s even the chance to spot the resident leopard. Evenings at Kokoko are particularly special, with sundowners and dinners set along the dry Mwagusi Riverbed—an atmospheric setting where elephants often wander nearby, adding a sense of magic to the experience.
Kokoko is perfect for those who desire the same high standards of comfort and service as Jabali Ridge, but in a more personal, off-the-beaten-path environment. It’s a rare and beautifully executed balance that Asilia has masterfully achieved between the two camps.
Lewa Safari Camp
Reaching Elewana Lewa Safari Camp from Jabali Ridge in Tanzania involves an overnight stay in Nairobi, followed by a scenic morning flight into the heart of the Lewa Conservancy. As one of Laikipia’s pioneering conservancies, Lewa stands out not just for its conservation success but also for its remarkable landscapes—ranging from wide-open savannahs and the undulating Laikipia Plateau to lush swamplands near the conservancy headquarters. On clear days, the view of snow-capped Mt. Kenya rising in the distance is nothing short of spectacular. To the south, the Ngare Ndare Forest offers a striking visual and ecological contrast to the open plains, highlighting the area’s rich topographical diversity.
Lewa continues to lead by example in balancing conservation with community. Its long-term commitment to preserving wildlife and habitats—while working alongside surrounding communities and managing the challenges of human-wildlife coexistence—adds meaningful depth to the safari experience.
Elewana Safari Camp is one of 2 Elewana properties in the Conservancy. The camp itself features 11 well-appointed suites and 2 family suites, spaced along either side of the main lodge. The suites, built from a harmonious mix of stone and canvas beneath thatched roofs, offer a rustic yet comfortable aesthetic. The more secluded units boast expansive views across the plains, where it’s not uncommon to hear wildlife calls echoing through the night.
Service at Elewana Lewa Safari Camp is warm, efficient, and personalized. The staff are genuinely attentive, creating a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Guiding is insightful, with a strong focus on local wildlife, ecology, and the greater Laikipia conservation landscape. Dining is another highlight—meals are thoughtfully prepared, full of flavor, and tailored to accommodate individual preferences
Game viewing @ Lewa Safari Camp
Lewa Conservancy is a haven for some of East Africa’s most unique and endangered species. It is home to one of the largest remaining populations of Grevy’s zebra, as well as a thriving number of black rhinos and the striking reticulated giraffe—species that are rarely seen together in other parts of the continent. The conservancy also shelters lesser-known but equally fascinating species such as the Somali ostrich and Defassa waterbuck, the latter distinguishable from its common cousin by the absence of a white ring on its rump.
Closer to the Ngare Ndare Forest boundary, lucky guests may spot the elusive gerenuk, a long-necked antelope known for its ability to stand on two legs while browsing.
Beyond these rarities, Lewa offers productive game viewing for more widely known African wildlife. Sightings of lions, leopards, hyenas, elephants, and both black and white rhinos are frequent and rewarding. The conservancy’s rich biodiversity, combined with its scenic landscapes, makes it a standout destination for those seeking both iconic species and lesser-seen wildlife in a well-protected and thoughtfully managed environment.
Elewana Lewa Safari Camp offers an enriching and authentic safari experience, where comfort is seamlessly paired with a strong conservation ethos in one of Kenya’s most iconic protected areas. Tucked away on the western edge of the Lewa Conservancy, the camp enjoys a quieter, more secluded setting—providing a heightened sense of privacy and exclusivity compared to other lodging options within the conservancy. Elewana’s commitment to keeping the camp refreshed with refurbishments will continue to ensure its position as the premier offering in the area.